Congratulations! you are the proud owner of what we feel is the highest quality trailerable
sail yacht on the market today. We at Victoria Yachts, Inc. take great pride in our product.
Your Eighteen is as close to hand manufactured as humanly possible. From the fiberglass shop
through to the finish department, quality control is ever present.
Because we are sure that you will want to rig and maintain your Eighteen in "Bristol Fashion"
we have compiled the following "Care and Feeding Package" for your perusal. By following these
tips not only will your Eighteen look and feel better, but your pocket will appreciate the lack
of depreciation over the years.
1. Rigging:
A. Mast and Boom are all extruded anodized aluminum. For best
appearance a coat of wax should be applied to all surfaces and
repeated on a semi-annual basis. This will keep the surfaces
clean and make the removal of salt and road film much easier.
B. Shrouds. Two uppers - Two lowers - and forestay, are 8 / 8 -
1 x 19 marine dried stainless steel. They require virtually no
maintenance other than periodic wiping with a damp cloth.
While doing this, you should check terminals for any fraying
as well as the shrouds themselves for kinks.
C. Turnbuckles - are also virtually maintenance free. They should
be visually inspected for cracks and occasionally the threads
should be lubricated lightly with WD-40 or a similar substance.
D. Spreaders - are free floating fore and aft. Vertically they should
stand straight out or at a slightly upward angle from the mast.
The upper shrouds should be taped or covered at the
spreaders with spreader boots to eliminate the possibility of
chafing on the genoa during tacks or while close hauled.
E. Rigging the Mast:
a. Attach all shrouds to the mast.
b. Lay the mast on the deck with the step forward on the bow
pulpit. (A piece of line may be used at this point to hold the
step to prevent the mast from rolling off the boat).
c. Extend all the turnbuckles to within approximately 1" of their
fully extended position.
d. Separate the starboard upper and lower shrouds and drape them
over the starboard side of the boat. Do the same for the port side
shrouds and drape them over the port side.
e. Now attach the upper and lower turnbuckles to the Chain Plates
making sure that the Upper Shroud turnbuckle goes in the AFT
Hole of the chain plate and the lower shroud turnbuckle is attached
through the froward hole.
(IMPORTANT) All clevis pins should be installed from outboard to
to inboard. There are two primary reasons for doing this.
1. If the cotter pin should break for any reason, gravity will help
hold the clevis pin in position.
2. If the cotter rings are placed outboard, the Jib
will hook on them while the Jib is luffing and rip
them out.
This procedure should be followed through-out the rigging.
ALL COTTER RINGS AND PINS INBOARD.
f. Halyards - The Main Halyard should be run through the two nylon sheeves
at the mast head. Make sure the shackle is placed on the aft or slotted
side of the mast. This halyard may now be secured tothe starboard cleat
at the base of the mast. The Jib Halyard should be run through the block
located on the forward face of the mast about 1/8th of the way down from the
mast head. The shackle end of this halyard should be placed so as to be away
from the mast. This halyard may now be atached to the cleat on the port side
of the mast.
(NOTE:) Standardization of the halyards on the mast (main starboard, jib port)
is done so tht there is never any question about which is which. You should be
able to automatically reach for the port halyard, release it and see the fore
sail come down. This should apply to any boat. Imagine the embarrassment
as well as possible injury that could occur. You are sailing on a friends boat.
a squall comes up suddenly. The skipper yells to douse the Jib. you instinctively
grab the port halyard. The skipper gets hit in the head with the boom as the
Main Sail comes tumbling into the cockpit. Don't laugh, it happens!!!
It's dangerous!!!
2. Stepping the Mast - This is a two person job. No muscle is required, just some thinking.
Let's assume a male-female combination. No chauvinism intended here! Do it any-way
you want, but for example we will use this combination.
a. Remove the pin from the tabernacle at the foot of the mast.
b. Place the female crew member on the Aft Deck, facing forward, just behind the
travelor. The male crew member should be forward at the pulpit
c. Pick the mast up and move Aft with it. The female will be holding the mast over her
head and moving it Aft. Go slowly as balance at this point becomes critical.
d. Position the Aft holes of the tabernacle plate on the mast so that they align with the
Aft holes on the tabernackle deck plate located on the top of the cabin.
e. Insert the tabernackle pin. (NOTE:) A pair of pliers may be useful at this point
to apply pressure to the pin. It may be necessary to move the mast from
starboard to port to slightly facilitate lining up the pin.
f. The male crew member now moves to the Aft end of the cockpit and while standing
on the seats, facing forward, removes the burden of the mast from his female
counter part. At this point the female will move forward, checking starboard and
port to assure the shrouds are clear of anything that might snag them when the
mast is raised, and positions herself on the deck in front of the cabin
g. The male crew member will now walk forward, the mast overhead, raising it to its full
up position.
h. The female will then attach the forstay to the bow plate.
The forstay attaches to the second hole aft from the bow.
This whole operation should have taken roughly 60 seconds, so don't get frustrated, reading
this.
i. Lowering the Mast - Utilize the same technique in reverse.
3. Tuning - It is most likely the single most important aspect in the rigging of your boat. The
tuning of your rig has more to do with its sailing characteristics, pointing ability, etc. than
any other facet of your boat.
a. Tighten the uppers and the forstay until the mast is in a straight up position, forward
and aft as well as port and starboard. The uppers and forstay should, at this point,
should be tight much like a guitar string, you should be able to pluck them.
b. Now tighten the lowers, still keeping the mast in its straight attitude. The lowers
should not be as tight as the uppers. You should be able to hold the lower
shroud, placing the palm of you hand flat against the inboard side of the shroud and
with the other hand pull the shroud forward and aft approximately 2" from center. If
the lowers are to tight, the mast will bend forward.
c. Install the locking rings into the lowers and uppers so that they cannot turn and then
tape these rings in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of chafing.
d. Install the locking rings in the forstay.
Your boat should now be in tune. Small adjustments may be made as you sail the boat
because of stretching in the rigging as well as any modifications you may feel will make
the boat, perform better. "This is a starting point, not a Law." Play with the tuning as
you understand it.
When lowering and raising the mast from this point on, it is only necessary to disconnect
and readjust the forstay. The lowers and uppers should stay attached and tuned.
4. Maintenance:
a. Hull and Deck - Your Victoria 18 hull and deck exterior are finished with a high gloss
gelcoat. Gelcoat is a polyester product very similar in nature to the paint on your car.
It is approximately twice as thick as paint and because of this you have the ability to
repair small scratches, etc. simply by sanding them. All of the gelcoat surfaces should
be maintained in the same manner as your automobile. Keep all surfaces clean, a little
soap and water will do wonders for your boat appearance. These surfaces should be
kept free of salt, dirt, road film, etc. Wax with any type of automobile wax on a
regular basis. This will keep the gelcoat from fading. Do not use waxes on non-skid
surfaces. If you should fail to wax regularly and your gelcoat does begin to fade,
simply buff it with automotive rubbing compound to revitalize the original luster. If
the rubbing compound fails to meet your satisfaction, you may sand the gelcoat with
600 grit wet paper then compound and wax. This process will remove the dead
surface pigment. (NOTE:) To much sanding will dissipate the gelcoat and a black
spotting background from the resin will begin to show through.
b. Hardware: All equipment on your Victoria 18 is as maintenance free as possible.
Again, wax works wonders. Keep all hardware clean and lubricated. The winches
should be disassembled periodically and the internal surfaces, springs and pawls
should be lubricated with vaseline or a like substance.
c. Teak: The option is yours with the teak. Some people perform no maintenance
teak as a matter of preference. This will cuase the wood to weather and assume a
driftwood type of appearance. If you do this, a coat of paste wax will cause the
surface to bleach.
Personally I prefer the freshly sanded and oiled look. This used to be a very time
consuming process as all surfaces had to be manually sanded. Nowadays however,
there are a myriad of teak treatment products on the market which allow you to
scrub the surface and rinse to a freshly sanded look. After the wood is clean,
sealer is rubbed on, which depending on the severity of the climate, will hold the
surface anywhere from one to six months. Anyway the choice is yours!
The tiller is made up of laminated mohogany and ash, and then varnished with four
coats of polyurethane varnish.
The tiller should be covered. Canvas covers, very similiar to sail covers are available.
When refinishing the tiller, apply seven coats of varnish allowing the varnish to dry
thoroughly between coats, and then lightly sand before applying the next coat.
d. Bottom: The underbody of your victoria 18 comes with an epoxy anti-fouling bottom
paint (international Paint Company, 779 Interlux). You may wish to apply a
different type of bottom paint when you refinish the bottom. It is best to check with
your dealer to find what is recommended for your area.
Before applying new paint, make sure that it is compatible with what is already on the
boat. If it is not, you will have to remove all paint from the bottom of the boat. If it is
compatible, all you will have to do is sand the bottom of the boat smoopth with 400
grit wet paper, using a liberal amount of running water.
Dry the surface to be painted, tape off a line below the water line to which you can
paint, and apply the new paint. (NOTE:) A roller seems to be the quickest, and
cleanest method for application.
e. Sails: Your sails are made of 4.5 oz Howe Bainebridge dacron cloth. If they are kept
clean they should give you four to six years of day sailing use or one to two racing
seasons.
To clean sails that have become soiled, simply lay them out on the lawn and scrub
them with a scrub brush and a mild dish type detergent.
f. Cushions: The cushions are fabric scotchguard, care must be taken to prevent mildew
by turning the cushions upright when leaving the boat. When the boat is out of use for
a longer period of time, remove the cushions and store them in a dry place.
g. Launching: BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST MAKE SURE TO CHECK
THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES IN THE WAY!
1. Back the boat down the ramp to check water depth. To launch without
using the tilt, the last 10" of the bunk board must be under water.
2. After checking the water depth, pull the boat up and disconnect the bow
from the trailer.
3. Now back down the ramp and hit the brakes to set the boat in motion.
(NOTE:) In shallow areas it may be necessary to pull ahead slightly and
redo the backing process in order to avoid putting the tow vehicle in the
water.
h. Recovering:
1. Back the trailer into the water until the back 10-15 inches of bunks are
submerged.
2. Sail the boat onto the trailer using the winch stand as a visual guide for
center. Being close will enable the keel guide to center the keel.
3. Hook the winch to the bow eye and winch the boat onto the trailer.
(NOTE:) The tilt mechanism may be used in shallow areas but is rarely
needed for easy launch and recovery.
i. Winterization: If you are sailing and storing your boat in one of the cooler climate
areas, certain steps should be taken prior to leaving the boat for the winter
1. All surfaces should be cleaned and waxed.
2. Two (2) gallons of anti-freeze should be poured into the keel cavity to
prevent freezing, should any water get into the bilge area.
3. All loose gear should be removed: this includes; cushions, sails, life
jackets, etc. Also mast, boom, and tiller should be stored inside if
possible.
4. Tape all Hatches shut with duct tape.
(NOTE:) The use of boat covers unless properly secured may prove
damaging to your boat. Wind, snow anbd hail will cause the tie
down lines to chafe.
j. Trailer:
1. Hitch weight: Should be between 30 and 50 lbs. for proper balance and
steering. Major adjustments should not be necessary.
2. Check list before trailering:
(a) Hook up to car
(b) Connect safety chains
(c) Check lights for connection and function
(d) Snug bow chock
(e) Assure gear is properly stowed
(f) Secure rigging
(NOTE:) 1. Do not use tie downs. Constant restrictions of movement
will cause jelcoat crazing.
2. Safety line on bow eyeAdvisable
3. Tire pressure 45 P.S.I.
4. Trailer wheel bearings lubricated
I think that covers about everything. If you follow these guidelines you can look forward to many
years of pleasure from you Victoria Eighteen.
I am pleased you have chosen the Victoria 18 and know that, if treated properly, she will return
your investment in pleasure ten fold.
If you have any questions or suggestions please do not hesitate to drop me a line. We are always
looking for new ideas and appreciate your feedback.
Good Sailing,
G. William McVay
Designer
